One of the first things you’ll realise is super annoying – battling your way through the barrage of foam coming your way.
When a really big set is coming in, it’s pretty difficult to get out to the back where most surfers sit, so we’d suggest waiting for the lull, especially when you’re just starting out.
When getting out back however, there are few ways to make it a bit easier.
Firstly, try and paddle out perpendicular to the wave. This just means facing the waves head on and showing the least side profile in hope of reducing the amount you get beaten around.
Secondly, try your hardest to stay on your board. Keeping your momentum will make the whole thing a lot easier.
Finally, the most important thing to remember – when the wave hits you , try to lift your body off your board a little. Very effective, but tricky to master.
Keep doing it and you’ll find that soon you’re doing it without thinking!