Hitting the reef in my heat at Cloudbreak a couple of months ago was pretty traumatic.

When it all happened it was scary because I hit my face and all I could see was blood.

Once I got home and got plastic surgery and started healing up I really realised how amazing the human body is and how grateful I am to have such a healthy and fun life surfing and chasing my dream.

Everyone has their ups and downs it’s how you grow from scary experiences that push you higher