I don’t think I’ve been anywhere near death while surfing, but I might have cried a little that one time trying to go in from a surf in Bali.

We were surfing at a sort of secret spot with two friends, and another friend was filming us from the top of the cliff.

It was very high tide and the waves were hitting the cliff pretty hard, and there was no other choice than to go in between sets and climb on very sharp rocks with one hand, holding the board with the other. I kind of miscalculated the moment I tried to go in.

Just as I reached the rocks and stood there I saw a big set coming, so I tried to scramble up as fast as I could and got a few cuts on my climbing hand, and just before I reached the top (6/8 feet high), that set wave came crashing on the cliff face and I fell on my back, thank god I was wearing boardshorts and a shirt, so the damage was just a few cuts on my legs and feet, and a few dings on my board.

I didn’t know what to do so I sat there and cried a bit, and then one of my friends helped me up and took my board.

Saddest part of the story is that the filmer guy didn’t even get the shot, a good laugh and a million views on youtube could have made me feel a lot better.