Sasha DiGuilian Just Became The First Woman To Free-Climb Madagascar’s Mora Mora

The rock face is considered the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the world

Photo: Courtesy of Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

Sasha DiGiulian is climber known for pushing boundaries. She made a mark in climbing’s history books early on in her career, becoming the first American woman to climb grade 9a wall aged only 19, at 24 years old she now holds 30 of history’s first ascents to her name.

Now DiGiulian has broken another record, becoming the first ever woman to complete a free ascent of Mora Mora, in Madagascar.

The world champion US climber, along wth her Spanish climber du Marin, completed the 700m multi-pitch route in Madagascar this July, spending three nights on the wall.


Photo: Courtesy of Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

““Every foot placement needs to be laser-precise”

Photo: Courtesy of Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

Mora Mora is a 700m, 12-pitch 5.14b (8c) that blasts up the left side of the Tsaranoro massif domes on the East African island of Madagascar. The route up face is made up of abrasive granite rock, with very few handholds. The holds you can find on this climb are tiny, the size of shelled peanuts.

“It’s like a dance,” DiGiulian told Red Bull after the climb. “Every foot placement needs to be laser-precise. Light breaths and slow movements, body positioning and trusting negligible little crystals.”

“By the end, the difference between my first few days on the climb was staggering – from feeling like even the easiest pitches were death-defying and over gripping while on top rope, to barely hanging on by the tips of my finger and skipping bolts.”

Photo: Courtesy of Francois Leabeau/Red Bull Content Pool

A free climb of this magnitude onset only require climbing skill and strength, it needs tough mental resilience and the drive to push through difficult situations, away from technology and the outside world for weeks. In short, it needs a real adventurer.

Congrats to Sasha for her new landmark record. We’re expecting to see some pretty huge things from her over the next few years!


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