From: Kauai, Hawaii
Have you always loved water sports?
Definitely, when growing up in Hawaii you don’t really have much choice! I was raised alongside the waves and was literally picked up and thrown into them by my Dad, so that’s how I got into surfing.
Did your Dad inspire you to become a surfer?
Actually my whole family inspires me. I pull strength out of people I love like my family or my boyfriend (Dean Morrison).
When did you decide to commit to surfing full time?
I’ve been competing since I was 12 years old, then I started to be a freesurfer when I was 20 or 21. The decision did not come suddenly, it kind of grew as my surfing progressed.
What’s your favourite surf spot?
I really love my homebreak in Hawaii but apart from that it’s definitely Sumatra.
How do you relax when you get the chance?
Lounging and watching movies is perfect to take your mind to another place.
How do you balance acting and surfing?
My acting is really coming along at the moment and being an actress makes me feel complete. But, despite that, surfing defines who I am more than anything else.
Is it difficult to switch between the two mindsets of surfer and actress?
Surfing is a natural act, and being natural when acting is what makes a good actress, that’s what I learned during my acting lessons. Every character has something you can identify with. When you have to play a murderer for example. I never killed somebody, but I can fake it. I’m good at acting angry or disappointed too…
If you had a chance, what would you change in the world?
My mom and I are part of the Joshua Project. Children in Africa who would like to attend school have to pay a lot of money, for example for the school uniform and for their books, etc. The Joshua Project built a special school where all these costs are paid by money raised from fundraisers and donations.
Are you eco-aware?
Yeah, I’m not part of an environmental organisation, but I think if everybody does something little it will make a big difference. In our house, for example, we use energy saving lightbulbs only, we only wash fully-loaded laundries, I try to keep my showers as short as possible, we recycle, we try to avoid leaving electrical items on stand-by and I love eco-friendly clothing too.
What are your plans for this summer?
We’re going to the Billabong Girls Days for several weekends which should be really fun! My mom and I are planning on heading over to the UK a bit early so we’ll also get the chance to visit some friends there.
What is your role in the Billabong Girls Days?
I help out the girls in the water, but this year I’m also looking forward to taking part in the yoga, Hawaiian dancing and hip hop lessons. I like the events because it’s all about the girls learning in the water, so there’s no pressure on me. I love hanging out with the girls and experiencing the different cultures in Spain, France and the UK.
Words by: Anna Langer