Because female pro surfers are marketed like models it’s easy to forget they’re actually super gnarly athlete daredevils, chasing waves in waters that could kill them on a regular basis.
The more famous incidents, such as Bethany Hamilton’s shark attack, Keala Kennelly’s Tahitian reef face smash and Maya Gabeira’s battle with the sea monsters disguised as waves at Nazare last winter, which left her unconscious, of course make the news but every pro surfer you chat to has a story of a near miss.
But back to the pros, we rounded up some of the best death-cheating encounters to remind you that whatever the brands would have you believe these girls are super tough.
They inspire the hell out of us. How about you?