One of the best things about surfing is that it’s fairly all-consuming – a chance to escape from the everyday and just enjoy being in the water.
But as much as you would like to stay in a state of surf-zen, you can guarantee some thoughts will sneak through…
1) When you first get in, everything is awesome
Paddling is easy, you feel good and you’re excited to go surfing
2) Slowly you realise the paddle out isn’t quite as quick and easy as it looked…
Your shoulders are burning and you resolve to actually do those surf fitness sessions you’ve been meaning to get round to
3) Maybe you haven’t timed your paddle out as well as you hoped…
4) Half way through your duck dive, it goes totally wrong…
5) But you can’t beat the feeling of getting one right and gliding underneath the power of the wave
6) Or the satisfaction of realising you’ve nailed the timing and completed a dry-hair paddle out
7) You finally make it out and realise the waves are bigger than they looked on the shore…
8) You realise you are waaay outside your comfort zone…
How am I going to make it back in?!
9) You find yourself in the perfect spot for a wave, but chicken out and paddle over it last minute
10) It all goes flat and quiet. You start thinking: What shall I have for dinner?
11) Will the surfer next to me think it’s weird if I start up a conversation?
12) Is worth peeing in my wetsuit to warm up?
13) Is that suspicious-looking object a shark or just a twig?
It was a twig, right?
http://i.imgur.com/Ovh9hEh.jpg
14) You’ll wonder why you do this to yourself, especially when you’re getting changed in a rainy car park…
I can’t feel my hands!
15) Or when you get caught on the inside…
16) Or when you seem to have forgotten how to surf…
17) Or when you collide with another surfer…
18) Or when you catch no waves for a whole session
Has anyone has noticed you haven’t caught a wave yet?
19) But then you catch one and it makes it all worthwhile…
20) And you are so stoked you want to do it again, and again, and again
Cross your fingers someone saw it to verify how epic it was!
21) Because nothing beats the high of an amazing wave..
22) And messing around in the sea…
23) And sharing waves with your friends
24) You can’t help feeling super lucky you get to surf
Just being in the sea is enough to make your day
